If you’re looking for big, spacious venues, you’re in the wrong place. Genoa at night can be a really interesting experience, if you’re used to wide avenues full of big bars heaving with people. In the city of the Lanterna, on the other hand, you’re more likely to find people in the street, because of the small spaces in which nightspots in the historic centre have grown up. Some of these have really pleasant surprises in store.
Let’s start from Piazza De Ferrari. The most central of Genoa’s squares is like the ‘gateway’ to the historic centre which is one of the largest in all of Europe. Piazza delle Erbe is the first crowded square that you’ll come across, particularly at the weekend. Here, terraces completely fill the open space, and you can sit at the tables and sip a cocktail. But if you’re looking for something more authentic, you have to walk a little further on to Via Canneto in Lungo. Behind the bar at ‘Bar degli Asinelli‘, its two legendary owners – Adriano and La Marchesa – will welcome you to an ambiance of bygone days, among the sixties mirrors and the bottles of Asinello, the local liqueur, flavoured with wormwood, cinchona, cinchona bark, rhubarb and gentian.
After your first taste of Asinello, you can head down the maze of alleyways towards the sea, and then turn left. Going beyond the local specialities, you’ll find a good selection of vodka at the ‘Kowalski‘, in Via dei Giustiniani. The restaurant offers excellent Polish dishes and a wide selection of Eastern European spirits, but it’s also be easy to find musical evenings and special events. Finished your vodka? Well, let’s head north now, stopping off at ‘Taverna Zaccaria‘, in Vico di San Cosimo.
A small, slate-coloured square in front of the church of Santi Cosma e Damiano, built between the 10th and 11th centuries. You’ll find a warmer ambiance at the Taverna, and glasses of excellent wine. However, in spring, you’ll find the square absolutely packed with young university students and tourists from the many bed and breakfasts in the area.
Heading back to where you started, you’ll find music and shows. In fact, within just a few metres, you’ll find many bars and clubs, often very different from one another. In Via di San Donato, on the first floor, you’ll find a wide variety of concerts at the ‘Kitchen Mon Amour‘, which is spread over two floors. You can eat and drink here in an ambiance more like a Parisian bistro or a Berlin club.
Heading up to the Carignano hills, however, the open space of the ‘Giardini Luzzati‘ offers you the chance to experience electronic music, concerts, shows and swing evenings. You can listen to live music and visit the archaeological area dating back to the first century, at the same time. A mixture of history and modernity that you won’t find everywhere, but that you can enjoy here in total harmony.