If you’re exploring southern Crete, don’t miss the chance to eat out at Eleonas. Set amid olive groves on the lower slopes of Mount Psiloritis, their taverna serves authentic Cretan cuisine prepared from fresh home produce, including their own olive oil, wine, goat’s cheese and seasonal vegetables, plus freshly-baked bread. Expect favourites such as lamb with lemon and dill, fresh

trout (from the nearby lake) and flavoursome horta (wild greens from the surrounding hills). Round off with a carafe of rakomelo (a potent spirit flavoured with honey and cinnamon). They have tables outdoors on a leafy stone terrace, and 20 homely cottages, should you decide to stay the night.