El Greco tiny museum occupies a centuries-old stone cottage, reputedly the birthplace of Domenikos Theotokopoulos (1541 – 1614). Better known as El Greco, Theotokopoulos trained as an icon painter on Crete, then left for Toledo in 1577, where he adopted Spanish culture and worked until his death. Way ahead of his time, he expressed himself through colour and drama, and his

genius was only fully recognised in the 20th century. Here you can see several reproductions of his artwork. Fodele is a pretty village set amid orange groves, 3km inland from the coast, with an 11th century Byzantine church, and a main square with several tavernas and a bust of El Greco.