This old-world inn, Antica Cantina I Tre Merli, is a traditional haunt and still serves authentic Genovese food in an atmosphere in Genoa where time stands still. It’s a 600-year-old palazzo yet manages to remain cosy and unpretentious. Apart from fresh fish and healthy tapas, tuck into basil-infused dishes, such as trofie al

pesto, with squiggles of pasta drenched in emerald-green pesto. Or try pansotti con salsa di noce, local ravioli in a creamy walnut sauce. The inn’s sexier younger sister is Ristorante I Tre Merli, on Porto Antico (+39 010 246 4416), which belongs to the same family. The original spot is best unless you’re there to pose.